I traveled from Antequera to Valencia a couple of weeks ago.  I have visited Valencia only once before, in 2006, and was limited to 2 days for lack of accommodations. I had arrived just a couple of days before the commencement of the America’s Cup world sailing race – the city was totally booked. This trip I took 6 leisurely days to enjoy the coastal city. I was in a lovely one-bedroom apartment just a couple of blocks from the cathedral and Plaza de Reina, pretty much in the center of all the tapas bars and restaurants.

I spent one day at the Oceanografic Aquarium, the largest in Europe. It had a number of giant underwater walkways with sea-life from all the oceans of the world. It also had large numbers of schoolkids on group learning tours. The Oceanografic is the southernmost of 6 remarkable structures making up the Science and Arts city along the green zone. The architecture of these giant structures is designed to mimic giant crustaceans.

The Valencia Market is the largest of its kind, and wandering the stalls is a study in colors and crowd shopping. One huge section is all fresh and often living seafood, a veritable magnet for photography.  Next to the market is the most interesting structure of the city and a World Heritage Site – the Lonja de Seda, or Silk Exchange.  The building was constructed in the 15^th century in late gothic style for commercial trading in various goods including silk. The giant interior hall rises to heights on slender fluted pillars. The entrances and roofing edges are carved with gargoyles.

From Valencia I took the train to Cuenca, the old town of which rises rapidly from the juncture of a river and small stream until it sits between two vertical sets of cliff faces. The road upward cuts a few hairpins until one reaches the elongated plaza mayor and cathedral, then continues to rise to the mirador (overlook). Three-and-four story old homes constructed right on the edge of the cliffs make for incredible sights as the sun finally rises high enough over the canyons to light the fall-colored trees. Overhead in the blue skies are groups of Griffon Vultures, impressive with 8 to 9 foot wingspans and colored gold and black. I had a tiny apartment just 100 meters below the Plaza Mayor where I spent time at the Meson San Juan Plaza Mayor, as it opened before dawn daily at 7am and did not close until midnight – serving lattes around a roaring fire in the dawn, serving great “menu del dias” at lunch and finally beer and wine with tapas in the evening. I hiked the steep roads down the mountain daily, and then (groan) back up to the mirador.

From Cuenca I traveled finally to Segovia, where I have visited twice before. The town, just north of Madrid, has perhaps the most impressive aqueduct in existence, built by the Romans in the 1^st century ad. With double arches stabilizing the pillars, at over 100 feet in height, the massive stones use no mortar and have stood for 2,000 years. Equally impressive is the medieval Alcazar, first built in the 12^th century and restored on several occasions with the last architectural phase in the 16^th century. It often served to seasonally house many of the Spanish royalty over 700 years, and was where Queen Isabela became queen. A World Heritage site, its “witch’s hat” turrets almost certainly helped inspire the Disney castle. Finally, Segovia is simply full of medieval 12^th century Romanesque churches with their classic narrow double columnated semi-circular windows and barrel vaults. All of the aforementioned surround the highest point where stands the golden late Gothic cathedral. Several times in Segovia I was fortunate to see the Cinereous Vultures overhead, equaling the size of Andean Condors as the largest raptors in the world.

I have sampled specialty foods from most of my stays in Spain. In Vigo it was the fresh seafood, but particularly the broiled scallops on the half shell drizzled with olive oil and lime juice. Salamanca, as always, famous for its Jamon Iberico bellota (ham from an ancient breed of black pigs, acorn fed). Cordoba offered its berenjenas califales con miel (crispy fried thin sliced eggplant drizzled with honey). Valencia, home of paella, offered saffron infused rice, slow cooked with rabbit and other meats in shallow black skillets to get a crispy slightly burned texture to the bottom layer; the authentic dish is prepared to personal order and takes from 35 minutes to an hour and is served in the skillet. Segovia is famous for its cochinillo, roasted suckling pig with crispy skin; I had mine as a quartered leg, hoof and all; dining alone provided the advantage of not having enough people to be served the entire pig, head and all. Amazingly, I do not believe I have gained any weight, probably due to walking many miles a day.

Mentioning the great foods requires some balance to the obverse – Segovia’s tapas almost always include various pig parts; I have carefully avoided sliced up strips of pig ears, but in dim light I mistakenly ordered sliced pig snouts the other night. In my travels over the years I have eaten fried rattlesnake, scrambled cow brains, beef tongue and tripe, estuarine crocodile stew, boot-of-Italy horse meat, Oaxacan fried grasshoppers and Peruvian roasted guinea pig BUT – I drew the line at pig ears and snout.

From Segovia I returned the 100 kilometers to Madrid, where I am spending 3 days before the flight back to Tucson.  Later. Dave

After a relaxing 2 weeks in Cordoba, I took the train to Malaga on the southern coast. There I had a lovely apartment with windows and balconies over tiny alleys. The old central section of town does not exude the ancient architecture of much of the rest of Spain. Most buildings struck me as 18^th and 19^th century, with lots of flourishes to attract the eye. Walking about a kilometer north-east along the botanical gardens brought me daily to a new part of the harbor designed for luxury yachts.  While I was there several yachts docked, including the I Dynasty, built a few years ago in Germany for a Kazakhstan billionaire, which at over 300 feet is more than twice the average super yacht; next to it was the Neninka, at 220 feet only 50% larger than most super yachts – I guess these now must be called super-super yachts. It is hard to imagine owning one of these for private pleasure (I did try to imagine – hard – but not impossible). Just beyond the super yachts were the huge docks for cruise ships, 3 in port my last couple of days. Along the gardens and port are flocks of screeching monk parakeets, an invasive species from southern South America, which I have not seen before.

I was surprised encountering the bronze of Hans Christian Andersen on the Alameda (the Botanical Garden walkway along the harbor). I read that he stayed here in 1862, and fell in love with the city, describing it in his book ‘In Spain.’

Antequera is as I remember it from 2 decades ago.  An absolutely charming small town full of Renaissance era magnificent brick towers and structures. It originated as a Roman stronghold. What it may now be most famous for is the presence of caves and tombs of neolithic origin, particularly 3 massive dolmens, huge earthen mounds covering megalithic tombs. The most interesting to me, the Menga Dolmen, is also the oldest at ca 3,600 BC, a millennium earlier than both the great pyramid of Egypt and the large stone ring of Stonehenge. It provides an entrance into a chamber 90 by 20 feet, the entrance, walls and roof constructed entirely of just 32 gigantic cut rocks. The height of the walls and extent of the roof are all formed by single rocks – you will need to see the photo below to appreciate the extent of these megaliths. The largest roof stone is estimated to weigh 180 tons, easily exceeding the largest Stonehenge stone of 40 tons, and the 80-ton stone in Khufu’s tomb chamber, the largest of the great pyramid. The Menga is considered the largest dolmen of Europe. When discovered in the 19^th century it held several hundred skeletons. If the dating is accurate, speculating on how the stones were carved and manipulated borders on requiring the miraculous. On my last two visits, about 20 years ago, reaching the dolmen just required a short hike out of town and a climb up the lonely hill. In 2016 it was named a World Heritage Site, so today it resides in a huge fenced area, landscaped with required walkways, a large museum, interpretive center and guards, and, of course, large tour groups arriving by tour buses. The Menga still is impressive.

I must comment on finding Cordoba, and then Malaga, in full Christmas decoration mode. I realize the US has long forgotten that the celebration should not start until after Thanksgiving (result of ever-growing greed among retailers). I had not realized Spain would follow (or perhaps it led – I have not traveled this time of year before).

I am now in Valencia for 6 days and will report on that later. Dave

My apartment in Cordoba is so modern and well located I have extended my stay here to 12 days. On the second level I have four floor-to-ceiling glass doors with small balconies, 2 facing northwest and 2 northeast. With a full kitchen, I have been eating many meals in the apartment. The complex has a full rooftop terrace, with views to the Great Mosque and Cathedral bell tower, where I pass most late days reading and watching the large flocks of Egrets passing overhead for the night roost. At sunset dozens of small bats emerge to take care of any flying insect problem. The downside has been the weather.  Although this is the rainy season, I am told everywhere these last several weeks that the storms are unusual in their rainfall and high winds.  Since Plasencia, I have walked through many parks in 3 different towns and found recently downed trees and large branches, cordoned off with police tape. Of course, the blame is directed to climate change – enhancing the already stormy season.

Cordoba is most famous for the 9^th through 12^th century Moorish occupation and the huge mosque (Mezquita) and Caliphate which for 200 years rivaled Mecca. After the reconquest by the Christian forces in the 13^th century, most of the great mosque was left, but about 10% of its floor space, right in the center of the hundreds of double arched pillars, was converted to a Cathedral, with its towering dome more than doubling the height of the mosque in that restricted central space.  Altogether a most unique building, not even close to resembling anything else I am aware of.  Nearby is the Alcazar Fortress of the Catholic Monarchs, most recently used as a prison, and now a major tourist attraction.  Of course, as one of the earliest World Heritage Sites, the crowds of tourists, most in large tour groups, clog all the hundreds of tiny ancient alleys that run through the old town.

As I have visited Cordoba many times, I have spent much of my current visit wandering down by the Guadalquivir River where it runs under the Roman bridge. At the bridge the river broadens and runs through the ruins of four 19^th century flour mills.  I have spotted a number of interesting bird species, but do not have the camera equipment for such photography. I also have spent a number of evenings supping at the Sociedad de los Plateros, an ancient fraternal order, which has several taverns where they stock and sell the famous Cordoba Sherries; I always order the Fino, a white fortified wine, together with the wonderful deep-fried eggplant drizzled with honey.

My small tourist apartment complex (13 units I believe) is managed by a young college student, Stanislav, from Ukraine. He came to the university in Cordoba as a foreign exchange student about 2 months before the war started, and continues his studies here.  I do not know his long-term plans, but assume he does not wish to return so long as the war continues.  I suspect he would be involuntarily drafted.

From Cordoba I travel to Malaga on the southern coast tomorrow.  I have never been there, but the Malaga region is famous for for its “White Villages,” which surround the city. Later, Dave

I traveled from Salamanca to Plasencia by bus as the rail system does not connect these. Looking back at Salamanca, my long-time favorite place in Spain, where I often have thought of purchasing a small second home, I now have very mixed feelings.  All the charm of the old city and fabulous Roman to medieval and Renaissance architecture, still is in place, but the tourist scene is out of control. Every day, even now, well outside the tourist season, the narrow streets and famous sites are completely congested with large (20-30 person) tour groups, with the guides often using portable loud speakers. They stop in the middle of streets, alleys, and entrances while the guides give lectures. I found after about 5 days I was getting very annoyed as I wandered around.

Plasencia is a small hill town, but with a wonderful Romanesque Old Cathedral with the New Cathedral, mostly gothic with Renaissance touches, built onto one side.  I guess the original plan was to fully take down the Old to expand the New, but instead construction stopped where they brought the two together, and one finds major gaps in the interior supporting walls where the two don’t quite connect.  The old has a picturesque cloister.

The city has a large section of original defensive walls from medieval conflicts still standing , and a wonderful heroic size bronze of Alfonso VIII, King of Castille in the 12^th Century, rides a horse over a town square.  My hotel was the Alfonso VIII, a 4-star with an old world charming interior.  I had a large top floor room with an outdoor roof-top terrace larger than the room. The town also maintains its 16^th century aqueduct. The weather turned cold and rainy the last couple of days, so sitting on the small plaza for drinks was uncomfortable.

I traveled by train south on to Merida, on a day with pouring rain and lashing winds.  Spain news reported on Borrasca Aline (Storm Aline), which apparently flooded much of Spain with record rainfall, and particularly the southwest where I was traveling.  My train was much slowed down, and at one point stopped for a downed telegraph pole to be removed from the tracks. My first day and half in Merida was almost continual rain and cold winds.

Merida, which I have visited many times, is the most Roman of cities, surpassing the ruins of much of Italy. It was founded in 25 BCE by Augusta Ceasar’s Legionnaires in retirement after successful battles, and was the capital of Lusitania, one of the 3 provinces of the Iberian Peninsula. First Century BC construction includes the longest existing Roman bridge (almost a kilometer), built over the Guadiana River, the finest (subjective) Roman theater in existence and amphitheater for gladiator battles, the huge remains of the hippodrome (horse and chariot races), long standing sections of 95 foot aqueduct towers,  a small forum, temple to Diana, and the ruins of a number of massive Roman villas, with mosaic floors and painted walls in place. Beyond this are numerous smaller remains, and perhaps the finest Roman Museum outside Rome and Naples. Obviously it was designated one of the original premier World Heritage Sites. I have several times in the past posted numerous photos of the Merida ruins, so will only post a few here below.

From Merida I travel again by train to Cordoba. Later, Dave

From Valladolid I traveled the short distance to Salamanca on October 5; transport was on a slow local train that terminated its line just a few blocks from the famous Plaza Mayor of the city. By slow I mean the train only ran up to 100 mph, compared to the Avias which go 160 and the Aves 230.  Designed with Renaissance touches, and considered by many the most beautiful plaza in Spain, the Plaza Mayor is a massive square completely enclosed by 4 story pinkish yellow stone buildings, with 10 arched entrance/exits. As usual in Spain, the plaza is filled with outdoor cafes and restaurants on all sides.  I stayed in the Ikonik Hotel fronting the Mercado and 1 block from the Plaza. Below my window was the outdoor seating for the local chocolate and churros café. Within 1 block were 2 Michelin starred restaurants, one right next to the outdoor café where I sat many late afternoons for my couple of beers or wines, and smoked my pipe; that is, I smoked my pipe most evenings until someone apparently absconded with my pipe pouch and paraphernalia while I visited the aseos (restrooms).

Always fun to watch the groups of young men, usually 8, or woman, out on Saturday evenings for pre-marital bachelor or bachelorette parties of all night rowdiness.  The best men dress the “unlucky” one, soon to leave bachelorhood, in the most embarrassing outfits and require the most embarrassing acts conceivable.  My first Saturday, the group a table down from me on the patio, had the unfortunate man in a bright pink full body rabbit outfit with enormous floppy ears, a gross straw-colored wig, and required him to continuously ring a large cow bell whenever someone spoke to him. Even worse was the poor guy I watched in the Plaza Mayor of Leon, whom his buddies had dressed in a lacy blue tutu, had carrying a yellow rubber chicken, and while they went off to a nearby bar to drink, left him taped to the lamp pole in the center of the plaza to have to answer to the general public who made snide remarks.  I cannot understand how Spain has a high marriage rate.

I enjoyed my many visits to my long-time favorite tapas taverns, the Meson de la Concha and Ruta de Plata. The latter wood fire grills pork ribs, pancetta (unsliced chunks of bacon meat) and sausages, dripping with mouth-watering fat.  I always have maintained a friendship with the grill master – this trip, my friend the prior grill master, Miguel, of many years had left, replaced by 6 foot 8 Sergio. Sergio, my first evening of conversation and showing him old pictures, intervened in the super crowded interior to personally serve me wine, and then grilled me 8 ribs for which he refused to charge. By the time I left my fingers were coated with dripping pig fat as my poor stomach was trying to deal with 5,000 calories of meat and red wine to bind it together.  I survived. My next time there Sergio and the waiters called “David, we have something of yours”, and astonished me with the recovery of my lost pipe pouch.  I do not remember how it got from the prior sidewalk café to the grill. Anyway, I was ecstatic, had some pictures taken of me and Sergio, and sat down to more wine and plates of sampling the grill fare for which Sergio would not charge me. Incredible place.

I had the unfortunate experience of again blindly planning travel right into a national holiday. I had booked ahead my next stop in Plasencia, just south of Salamanca, only to find 6 days in advance that of the 7 daily buses, no seats were available except a midnight bus arriving 2 in the morning.  I had no problem cancelling my booking, but then could find no rooms over the holiday weekend in Salamanca, or even in Madrid Letras Barrio, or nearby Avila or Segovia.  Finally, I found a late listed apartment available at last minute and was able to book through the weekend, and so simply rescheduled my route on to Plasencia.

I have revisited the fabulous twin cathedrals, the Viejo built from the 12^th century starting with its amazing Romanesque dome, and 13^th century interior wall paintings in a back chapel. Its altarpiece is a gigantic semi-curved soaring masterpiece of 53 individual paintings framed in gold, with the ceiling semi circular cupola overhead bearing a giant painting of the last judgement. The altarpiece was designed and painted by Dello Delli and 2 brothers from Florence, in the early 15^th century, just the start of the Italian Renaissance.  The new cathedral is mostly Gothic in architecture, but with fabulous Renaissance Plateresque designs on all exterior entrances. Unlike anywhere else, the old cathedral was not destroyed to build the new, but had the new built cloaking around parts of the old.  Thus, the two form a single structure, with entrance to the old through the new.  The upper terraces view of the old and new domes together is, to me, one of the most fabulous architectural wonders of Spain.  I have posted before, but of course do so again, some photos below.

Close by the cathedrals the 12 century University facade is also covered with Renaissance Plateresque carvings.  In the nearby Claustro is the “Night-sky of Salamanca,” – a half planetarium sky dome with a heavily restored painting showing the major constellations and stars originally painted by Gallego in 1473.  This was 19 years before Columbus sought guidance for his voyage to the New World.

Other always-favorites include the Roman bridge across the Rio Tormes, the San Esteban Monastery with its Churriguera brother’s massive wood-carved gold-leaf Plateresque altarpiece, and the Renaissance cloisters in the Convent de las Duenas, the Casa de las Conchas and the 12^th Century University.

Last evening I was having a beer on a small street a block from my apartment, and was told they had to remove all tables and stuff from the street by 7:30 for a religious procession to march up the street. I went inside and waited as dozens of others did to see the sight.  After an hour and half with no procession I gave up and bought some take-home food, and went to my apartment to eat.  At bed-time I realized I was hearing the drums and music of the nearby procession, which kept getting louder, until I realized it had turned off the street where I had waited, and now passed directly under my two balconies.  Who could guess.

Monday, I travel by bus a little south to the small hill town of Plasencia, from there Merida and from there who knows. Later. Dave

From Ourense my train trip to Leon started with an unexpected 1 hour bus ride detour to a nearby town on the same rail line, as the train tracks out of Ourense were under construction.

Leon was the ancient capital of Castile & Leon after successfully driving out the Moors in the 9^th century. With a long line of kings through the 13^th century, its power and wealth saw some stunning Romanesque and Gothic construction. Even most of the 18^th through 20^th century buildings in the town center are “eye-grabbers.”  I had an efficiency apartment with balcony overlooking the Plaza Marcello, about 2 blocks from the Catedral and the Plaza Mayor.

The cathedral, an early 13^th century gothic masterpiece, may be the most visually stunning in Spain. It sports some of the earliest gothic standouts – the ribbed vault ceilings soaring impossibly high, and wide pointed arch windows, here with over 18,000 square feet of stained glass, an unrivaled masterpiece. It is described as the most French of Spanish cathedrals, having been originally designed by a Frenchman. I sat daily in a sidewalk café on the square before the cathedral for my morning cappuccino.

The Plaza Mayor and Plaza San Martin, together with the cathedral, formed a triangle of winding tiny passageways comprising almost exclusively tapas bars and cafes. The main plazas filled with outdoor seating for drinking beer and wine from 6pm to 8pm – at 8 most of the tapas bars opened and the passageways became walls of people eating and drinking till midnight.

Just north of the cathedral is the Basilica Santo Domingo with a marvelous 13^th century Romanesque cloister, Gothic church and interior Renaissance detail and staircases. The fully renaissance Convento San Marcos, across the Roman bridge over the Bernesga River, now is the city’s Parador (a Spanish government line of historic buildings turned into luxury hotels).

On the Plaza San Marcelo where I stayed, I visited the Leon Museum with its archaeological and Roman collection and 2^nd millennium art. Next door was one of Gaudi’s earliest buildings, now called the Casa Botin with its historic Gaudi museum.

From Leon a short train ride south brought me to Valladolid, where I stayed in a suite with two balconies directly viewing the Parroquia Iglesia Santa Maria Antigua, a gothic church with an 11^th century Romanesque masterpiece bell tower. The photo below of the tower at night with the full ‘Harvest’ moon was taken from my room’s balcony.  A block south is the city’s Gothic cathedral, sitting next to the original renaissance University building. Every evening I sat at an outdoor cafe below the façade of the cathedral drinking beer, and watched the white storks flying across the city for the night roost.

Some may have noticed my photos are showing many more bronze statues – not the old boring kind, but modern quirky pieces posing in public sidewalks or squares, seeming to be interacting with the surroundings. These started appearing 20 some odd years ago, and now are becoming much more common.  They are delightful, especially the lion emerging from a storm drain, and the man and boy admiring the Leon cathedral.

From Valladolid there is a daily ‘slow train’ running just the 100 miles to Salamanca. When I say slow, it means it didn’t ever get much over 100mph. The Alvia’s on which I usually travel are faster averaging top speed just over 150mph.  The newest long lines run the Ave trains which can get up to about 240mph. The rail system pretty much covers all corners of the country. Too bad the US is so far behind in high speed rail. I will write re Salamanca in my next report as I am booked here for 11 days.

Later, Dave

From Santiago I traveled the short distance south to Vigo, a large fishing and cruise ship town on the Atlantic coast.  Beautiful panoramic views were available to those who climbed the steep hill crowned by the Castro Fort. My apartment was on the pedestrian street Rua Principe, the main elite shopping district, directly across from the Marco Museum (Museum of Contemporary Art). I could tell the time all night by checking the clock tower just outside my window.  Though I admit to not having much appreciation for contemporary art, the free entrance to the museum, 20 steps from my door, pretty much guaranteed my visit.  ‘Somewhat interesting’ will remain my critique.

Vigo is well known for its splendid variety of fresh seafood. I ate late dinners (around 9pm) most nights at one of the many seafood restaurants lining the old market at La Piedra. Lots of clams, scallops, mussels, giant shrimp, octopus and squid, along with many species of unknown fish, all bony – most rather pricey. Scallops (Zamburiñas in Gallego), seared in the half-shell (the shell is Santiago’s emblem) with a tangy butter-olive oil drizzle, are to die for – 2 Euros a pop.  I ordered a half dozen of these every place that had them.

It rained on and off most days, but was great sitting out under umbrellas at the maritime port, drinking cappuccinos and eating chocolate napolitanas, watching the cruise ships refilling with passengers back from day sight-seeing trips.

I traveled inland from Vigo to the hilly city of Ourense with its old walled section on the south side of the Rio Minho. The original roman bridge over the river carries inlaid bronze shells, marking this as the route of the Camino de Santiago. The old bridge is unusual with its high pointed arches, and provides a great view west to the novel modernistic design of the Millenium Bridge.

My apartment overlooked the small Praza do Ferro, just a block from the Romanesque Cathedral, which original 12^th century Portals of Paradise form a fantastic detailed colorful entrance (paint added 18^th century). The narrow passages threading from my plaza to and around the cathedral to the Praza Maior (the names here are Galician, one of the official languages of Spain, more closely related to Portuguese), simply are filled back-to-back with tapas bars.  A few blocks of climbing from my apartment gets to the Romanesque-Gothic transition San Francisco Church Cloister, a stunningly beautiful double columnated square. It also contains a one room Museum of Archaeology of Ourense, and out on the hillside the large ancient cemetery of Ourense. Just below the Cloister is the Mirador (lookout) over old Ourense with the cathedral backed by distant green hills – this my favorite spot for cappuccinos in Ourense.

My Spain trip started poorly, as have my last 3 international flights, with an early am notice that my AA flight Tucson to Dallas was delayed, putting at risk my international connection.  I rushed to the airport and managed to get the last seat on an earlier flight, necessitating exchanging a first-class ticket for a center seat at the back of the plane. This successfully got me to Dallas in plenty of time, permitting me to “enjoy” the Flagship Lounge for over 7 hours.  The flight to Madrid was pleasantly boring and I got some sleep.  Amazingly, I got a notice several days later that AA had processed a partial refund to my account.

Madrid, as usual, was great.  I stayed in a small efficiency apartment less than ½ block from Santa Ana Plaza, my favorite haunt in the Letras Barrio (named the “Letters” as this was the historic district for many famous writers, from the great Cervantes, early 1600s, to Ernest Hemingway, early 1900s). The number of tapas bars is beyond count.  I visited for the third time the Archeological Museum with its wonderful pre-Roman funerary exhibits.

I took the new high-speed rail from Chamartin station to Santiago, a trip that used to take over 6 hours now barely taking 3.  I had a small room in the Pension O Codice, with 3 balconies overlooking the famous Rua do Franco, above a couple of tapas bars, and with a view of the cathedral just 200 yards up the street.  The Catedral of Santiago has been famous for over 1100 years as the burial site of Saint James, the Disciple of Jesus. Amazingly, his lost burial suddenly was “discovered” in Santiago de Compostela, 900 years after and 2,500 miles distant from his death in Jerusalem.  For over 1100 years pilgrims have been journeying hundreds of miles by foot, from France and Spain, as a pilgrimage to this Cathedral.  Whatever your beliefs, it is moving.  My first day I followed an old man, his wife 15 feet behind, both carrying packs with the inevitable white shell attached, walking the last 200 meters to the great square on the west side of the cathedral. Dropping their packs to the ground they stood in the middle of hundreds of other pilgrims, faces lifted to the great cathedral.  I watched the old man, eyes closed, mouthing silent prayers, and tears were streaming down his face. Then a group of maybe 40 young people entered the square with rousing songs as they danced and leapt in great circles, dropping their packs in piles.  It sounds trite, but the Camino clearly is a monumental religious experience for those who undertake the multi-weeks pilgrimage.  In order to earn one of the official certificates from the Cathedral honoring completion of the Camino, one must certify the walk was undertaken for religious reasons, and must obtain stamped attestations from pass points at least twice daily which establish a minimum of 100 miles covered.

I now have moved on to the fishing city of Vigo, just north of the Portuguese border. Later. Dave